Nicholas Clooney

Homemade Hash Browns, Two Ways | 自制薯饼两种做法 — 外脆内糯

I just made the most delicious homemade hash browns and ended up with two versions, both excellent.

The one with the mashed-potato crust came out surprisingly chewy, almost like a rice cake. This is the version I especially want to remember.


The Science Behind the Chewiness

When you grate raw potatoes into a fine pulp, you release starch granules and cell contents. As the starch-rich potato paste hits the heat of the pan, the starch undergoes gelatinization: the granules absorb water, swell, and form a continuous gel network. This is the same process that makes rice cakes and mochi chewy.

Since the grated potato layer acts as a sealed wrapper, the moisture inside the casing steams rather than evaporates freely, keeping the starch hydrated and creating that satisfying soft, chewy bite. The exterior, by contrast, loses moisture rapidly through direct contact with the hot pan, which is why you get that crispy golden crust on the outside while the inside stays tender and bouncy.

Squeezing water out of the grated potato beforehand removes excess free water, which would otherwise steam the crust soggy, but enough bound starch moisture remains to gelatinize into chewiness once enclosed.

Ingredients

  • Potatoes, as many as you like
  • Salt
  • Cornstarch
  • Oil for frying
  • Flaky sea salt, to finish

Method

Step 1: Prepare the Potatoes

Wash and peel your potatoes.

  • Half of them: grate finely using a cheese grater until you have a smooth, pulpy mash.
  • The other half: cut into short batons, roughly 1 x 1 x 3-5 cm.

Step 2: Par-Cook the Batons

Heat a cast iron skillet with oil over medium heat. I used about 5/10 on my ceramic stove. Stir-fry the potato batons slowly and patiently until just cooked through. They are ready when a chopstick or spoon meets only gentle resistance, or when the edges just start to turn golden.

Remove from the pan and transfer to a small bowl. Toss with salt and cornstarch to coat.

Step 3: Squeeze Out the Raw Grated Potato

Squeeze out as much water as possible. You can do this simply with your hands, or wrap the grated potato in a kitchen towel first and press it out that way. If you use a towel, just be a little mindful, because it can tear.

Shaping: Two Versions

Version 1: The Crust Wrap

Spread the grated potato into a thin, flat layer, about twice the size of your intended hash brown. Place a portion of the seasoned cooked batons in the center, then fold and wrap the potato around the filling completely, like a little parcel. The grated potato forms a crust that encloses everything inside.

Version 2: The Smash Cake

Place some cooked batons in a bowl and use a spoon to partially smash them. Aim for about half mash, half chunky pieces. Then press and shape the mixture into a small patty with your hands, roughly palm-sized.

Step 4: Pan-Fry to Golden

Return everything to the pan over medium heat. I used about 5/10 on my ceramic stove. Pan-fry patiently and do not rush. Wait until one side is deep golden, then flip. Fry until both sides reach your desired level of crispness.

Finishing

Transfer to a plate, add a pinch of flaky sea salt, and blot with paper towels to absorb excess oil. Let cool for a moment, then eat.


Chinese version: 自制薯饼两种做法

我刚刚做了好好吃的自制薯饼(Hash Brown),而且有两个版本,都超级好吃。

其中用土豆泥做饼皮的版本,做出来是糯糯的,像麻薯一样,真的很神奇。下面把两种做法记下来。

为什么会变得糯糯的?——厨房化学小知识

当你把生土豆磨成细腻的泥状时,大量的淀粉颗粒和细胞内容物就被释放出来。这些富含淀粉的土豆泥在接触到锅的热量时,会发生淀粉糊化,也就是淀粉颗粒吸水、膨胀,形成连续的凝胶网络。这和做麻薯、年糕时的原理很像,正是糯性口感的来源。

而当土豆泥被用作“饼皮”包裹住馅料时,内部的水分无法自由蒸发,而是以蒸汽的方式留在包裹层内,让淀粉保持水合状态,造就了那种软糯弹牙的口感。与此同时,与锅面直接接触的外皮因为水分迅速散失,形成焦脆金黄的外壳,内外形成很好的对比。

提前把磨好的土豆泥里的水分挤掉,是为了去除多余的游离水,否则外皮会被蒸湿,失去酥脆感。但土豆中与淀粉结合的水分依然足够,加热后就能糊化成糯糯的口感。

食材

  • 土豆(适量)
  • 玉米淀粉
  • 炒菜用油
  • 海盐片(最后点缀用)

做法

第一步:处理土豆

土豆洗净、削皮。

  • 一部分:用细孔刨丝器刨成细腻的土豆泥或细丝。
  • 另一部分:切成短条,大约 1 x 1 x 3-5 cm

第二步:把土豆条炒至半熟

炒锅加油,用中火加热;我用的是陶瓷灶台,大约 5/10 火力。下土豆条,慢慢翻炒,耐心等待,直到用筷子或勺子稍微用力能戳得动,或者边缘开始出现一点点金黄就可以了。

出锅放入小碗,趁热拌入盐和玉米淀粉,让每根土豆条都裹上。

第三步:挤干土豆泥的水分

尽量把水分挤出来。可以直接用手挤,也可以先用厨房纸巾把刨好的土豆泥或细丝包起来再压挤。如果用厨房纸巾,稍微留意一点就好,因为它有时候会破。

整形:两种版本

版本一:土豆泥饼皮包裹版

把土豆泥或细丝铺成薄薄的一层,大小大约是成品薯饼的两倍。把调好味的土豆条放在中间,然后用土豆泥把馅料整个包裹起来,像包一个小包子一样。土豆泥就成了饼皮。

版本二:压碎小饼版

把熟好的土豆条放入碗中,用勺子稍微压一压,目标是一半变成泥,一半还是条状。然后用手把它们捏成小圆饼,大小以手心能放下为准。

第四步:慢煎至金黄

把两种薯饼都放回锅中,用中火慢慢煎;我用的是陶瓷灶台,大约 5/10 火力。等一面煎至深金黄色再翻面,两面都达到你想要的焦脆程度就可以出锅了。

最后收尾

出锅后撒上海盐片,用厨房用纸稍微吸一下油,晾一小会儿就可以开吃。